As we approach the second refuge, Cabana Veronica, it’s a real tightrope walk, where every misstep threatens to send us to the bottom of black crevasses. Finally arrived, I can catch my breath and we enjoy a good lunch while chatting with Belgian hikers.

When we part ways, our plan is to head to the Uriellu refuge, which involves crossing the massif lengthwise. Upon arriving at the start of the trail… Woe, everything has slid away, the chains are torn off and scree covers the trail. I had heard of this mishap, which happened in 2023, but I was sure the damage would have been repaired by now. Unfortunately, we have to turn back, no way we’re risking our lives on that.

We then begin a huge detour, via the “normal” route of the Anillo de Picos, which is much easier, through a wide green valley. To the sound of cowbells, we descend eighteen hundred meters down to the very pretty village of Sotres where we arrive, at the last minute, to book two beds in a youth hostel.

We are sunburned and exhausted. A good meal in town washed down with good beer puts us back on our feet to take a shower and wash our few clothes. If all goes well, tomorrow we will sleep at Uriellu and we can thus resume the rest of our journey as planned.