Crossing the Rhône valley seemed rather unpleasant to me. Unfortunately, the hotel owner confirms my fears: the roads are busy and monotonous.

In such a situation, there is no other choice but to turn up the music, be patient, and pedal hard to get out of the quagmire as quickly as possible. For fifty kilometers, it is indeed quite painful, despite an appealing crossing of Pont-Saint-Esprit. It occurs to me that this is the first time I have crossed the Rhône by bike. Well, it is a small accomplishment that goes some way to making up for an otherwise disappointing morning.

It is only when I reach Nyons that the magic of travel takes effect. Suddenly, the Baronnies Provençales reveal all their charm. The air is fragrant with lavender soap, everywhere are stalls of wrinkled, glistening black olives, and above all, oil, lots of oil. Jars small or large, round or elongated, dark or light—one does not know where to look.

This charming village is the ideal place to have lunch, and I do not deny myself, especially since shortly afterwards I leave the main road, which annoyed me so much, to set off and discover the tight little switchbacks of the Gorges des Trente Pas.

This time, it is the beauty of the landscape that awakens my senses. From majestic cliffs overlooking the road to purple forests, I almost forget the difficulty of the two small passes ahead of me.

At the top of the second, I savor in advance what awaits me: a long, very gentle descent, almost thirty kilometers, which will take me to Die, a region well known for Clairette.

The vineyards overlooking the Drôme, illuminated by an already low sun, are a sight that leaves me dumbstruck. The day has nevertheless been long, and at this end of the trip, I am starting to tire. So, once again, I turn up the volume a little, and it is to Cissy Strut that this stage ends, beautifully.

Die is a magnificent village, and I delight in visiting it. Between small designer shops, a bookshop, and unpretentious bars, I find more than enough to enjoy my evening.

As I prepare tomorrow’s route to reach Grenoble, I finally become aware of how difficult crossing the Vercors will be…