The cyclist diary

From Saint-Jean-du-Gard to Alès

Tue, 05 May 2026 00:00:00 +0000

A quick glance behind the thick blue curtain of my hotel room sets the tone for the day: I’m walking! A beautiful rectangle of azure sky stands out beyond the tall ochre walls of the hotel, and suddenly my depression of yesterday seems ridiculous. I’m still amazed today at the effect the sun has on a hiker.

The eternal “porridge” is prepared and swallowed in a few minutes. The room is filled with the humidity released by my soaked belongings from yesterday. I air out, I pack; I can’t wait to leave. The hotel owner sees me arriving with a smile: “So, you’re going?”; I’m delighted to be able to tell him yes. Me? Give up? What a strange idea crossed my mind.

From Saint-Germain-de-Calberte to Saint-Jean-du-Gard

Mon, 04 May 2026 00:00:00 +0000

Despite the excesses, the night was good. For once, the weather forecast turned out to be correct and from the moment we woke up, it was raining. This rain would follow me all day, sometimes light, sometimes heavy and dense.

We have a hearty breakfast; everyone is in good spirits, despite the day ahead. Barely have the obligatory goodbyes been dispensed, we put on our ponchos, capes and other rain trousers, ready to face the outdoors.

From Florac to Saint-Germain-de-Calberte

Sun, 03 May 2026 00:00:00 +0000

I feel like I’m just a shadow in this lodge, having taken neither dinner nor breakfast; I have to slip among the guests through to the common room to go nibble on my supplies. A good sleep has put me in shape for this long day. Departure at 8:30 AM.

I thought I would stop today at Cassagnas. Good thing I booked a lodge in the next village, because this first morning of hiking is quite bland. We often follow the road, through undergrowth with blocked views. I can barely hear the distant roar of rally cars speeding through the Cévennes steep paths.

From Finiels to Florac

Sat, 02 May 2026 00:00:00 +0000

Is it The Curse of the Forest Cabins striking? I slept badly again. The stubborn pathogen inhabiting me has been acting up again. Yet, the night was beautiful, the moon almost full, and the holes in the ceiling formed just as many stars in my sky.

I take the time to make coffee in front of the fir trees that are on fire in the rising sun. I’m obviously covered in soot despite my thousand precautions last night.

From Chasseradès to Finiels

Fri, 01 May 2026 00:00:00 +0000

Another night of heavy, dreamless sleep. However, this morning I genuinely feel more energetic, so much so that I allow myself a bowl of dishwater coffee, served by the owner. News travels fast on the GR. At breakfast: “I was sick the day before yesterday… -Oh yeah, you’re the one who drank from the pond?!”. Someone clearly spilled the beans.

I chat quite a while with two companions who were in the dormitory, then everyone goes about their business. My stuff is already ready, I hit the trail. My form is decidedly very good, I was able to eat, the thirty kilometers planned today shouldn’t be a problem.

From Notre-Dame-des-Neiges to Chasseradès

Thu, 30 Apr 2026 00:00:00 +0000

I wake up in my boarding-house bed, feeling well. The after-effects of my little mishap are still there, but I can feel my body is rested. I have breakfast of bread and herbal tea, under the benevolent eye of the volunteers who run the lodge. They wish me good journey and good luck; I’ll need it, to recover.

The descent towards La Bastide is easy. Quick pharmacy stop and now I’m armed with Smecta and electrolytes to tackle my day! I also buy some applesauce, which is part of the very restricted list of foods I’m allowed. I still have a piece of that good sausage in my bag and I’m starting to miss it.

From Luc to Notre-Dame-des-Neiges

Wed, 29 Apr 2026 00:00:00 +0000

This lovely little bivouac had everything to be perfect, or at least a perfect nightmare. The pond water turned out tougher than my filter, which supposedly guarantees pure water. At midnight, I wake up with intense stomach cramps, I shake like a leaf, then I sweat profusely. It’s bad! I spend the next three hours in a feverish delirium, getting up to empty myself into the wild, then coming back to shiver in my sleeping bag, without even bothering to take off my shoes. The deer are quite astonished by the spectacle.

From Arquejols to Luc

Tue, 28 Apr 2026 00:00:00 +0000

A strange bout of diarrhea kept me going all night, the fault of some brackish river water? It doesn’t stop me from getting up in a good mood and brewing some (real) coffee facing the barely risen sun.

The descent towards Pradelles is easy and I’m in excellent spirits. The village welcomes me under a beautiful sun and I take the opportunity to tour the old buildings. I find a book exchange box, which will be the new home of the Hussar that I finished yesterday.

From Goudet to Arquejols

Mon, 27 Apr 2026 00:00:00 +0000

A shining moon, stars scattered across the sky, blackbirds then owls… That’s the summary of a successful bivouac night. Except that it was very humid, because of the river, and everything is soaked this morning. No matter, I pack up; I’ll dry everything in the sun at noon.

The good fellow from last night, who was keen on old stones, like me, told me that you can follow the river a bit on the GR3 to discover the “first castle of the Loire”. He paints the picture, makes my mouth water with a wealth of superlatives and onomatopoeia. He succeeded in making me want to go, so I turn away from Stevenson to go see this famous castle, perched atop an old volcanic chimney.

From Le Puy to Goudet

Sun, 26 Apr 2026 00:00:00 +0000

A good restorative night and a continental breakfast later, and I’m on my feet to tackle the day. I buy a walnut bread to round out my supplies, before hitting the road towards Le Monastier.

Some say this stage is optional, because it doesn’t correspond to Stevenson’s route. That’s true, but it’s in the guidebook, and I’m a stickler for details.

Bordeaux - le Puy-en-Velay

Sat, 25 Apr 2026 00:00:00 +0000

A good adventure cannot reasonably begin without an interminable train journey. It’s an absolute constant, no point trying to avoid it. To get from Bordeaux to Le Puy-en-Velay, the current starting point of the trail, you have to go through Paris, change from Montparnasse to Gare de Lyon, go back down to Saint-Étienne and finally hop on a little train that follows the meanders of the Loire with precision to reach your destination. In total, a solid ten-hour journey.

First Night in a Hammock

Mon, 06 Apr 2026 10:06:36 +0200

Since my hike on the GR-R2, I’ve had one desire: to try a hammock. My friend Camille had brought one on our excursions and I must admit it made me envious, for two reasons in particular. Firstly, being isolated from the ground; it may seem like a small detail, but when the ground is damp, dusty, sandy… I find it quickly becomes quite unpleasant to set up camp, not to mention the damaging effect on zippers.

Sew Your Own Backpack - Part 2

Fri, 20 Mar 2026 20:48:22 +0100

Once the materials are gathered and the pattern is bought, there’s “nothing left to do” but… sew? Actually, no. I’ve realised over the course of my projects that a fairly long preparation phase is systematically necessary before actually starting…

Sew Your Own Backpack - Part 1

Wed, 18 Mar 2026 20:48:22 +0100

For the second time, I’m tackling the making of a hiking backpack. This is a project that seems, to many, difficult, even insurmountable. In reality, with a minimum of patience and equipment, it’s a fairly manageable project. Now, would I recommend it to a beginner sewer? No! But if you have some basic knowledge, as I do, why not embark on this little adventure?

Why sew your own backpack

Bath Without Effort

Fri, 22 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

This morning around 7 AM, an unprecedented question arises: is the last leg of the Cotswold Way worth it? The map shows crossing many roads, including the highway, and German hikers we met yesterday confirmed that the stage was “forgettable.”

After some back and forth, our decision is made: we’ll finish by bus and instead spend the day visiting the ancient city of Bath, which wasn’t in the original plan.

Walk on the Ridge

Thu, 21 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The night wasn’t so great at the inn. Was it the meal that was too heavy? Maybe. A little too much good ale? Possibly too.

Anyway, we hit the road quickly after a rushed breakfast (they still made me some excellent scrambled eggs). First stop, Dursley, still asleep when we passed through. It’s less pretty than usual, so no regrets.

Comfort at Uley

Wed, 20 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The night was finally excellent — thanks to earplugs — and the mood is frankly very good this morning, especially since we know we’ll be able to have a proper breakfast in three kilometres at Painswick.

Damn Highway

Tue, 19 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The campsite’s common room is an excellent reason to linger this morning over breakfast. It’s warm inside and we’re well settled.

When it’s time to leave, unfortunately we’re greeted by a dreary landscape of harvested fields, interspersed with busy roads. We quickly climb a hill, enjoying the nice view of the Gloucester basin.

Kilometres on the Green

Mon, 18 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The night is excellent and the waking gentle, though the sun isn’t playing along. We take the time to heat up coffee and prepare some porridge; the stage isn’t that long and we want to enjoy the morning softness.

When it’s finally time to leave, it’s for a few quiet kilometres that take us to Winchcombe, a charming village in the same style as yesterday’s, but noticeably larger.

We don’t linger too long and instead set off to conquer a little local hill, atop which Neolithic ruins testify to ancient funeral rites in the region — and to a certain sense of architecture.

The Sun That Glitters and the Grass That Greens

Sun, 17 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Strange surprise upon waking today: the water is cut off in the whole village. Hard to make breakfast (usually porridge) or even do a bit of washing.

We buy two litres of water at the grocery store, where we run into many locals, just as puzzled as we are.

The Crossing of Paris (Among Other Things)

Sat, 16 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

We decided, in an effort to reduce our carbon footprint — it’s the done thing — not to take the plane to get to England. The prospect of taking the Eurostar for the second time in my life delighted me to no end, I must admit. However, we’re not simply going Paris - London, but Talence - Chipping Campden, and that’s where the difference lies.

At the End of the Thrust, the Sea

Wed, 16 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The night was surprisingly good near our little kiosk. So much so that the tent dried out, unlike our clothes soaked by yesterday’s rain. We’re in high spirits, with only a few kilometers left to descend before the end of this GR. After a quick breakfast, we’re already on the road, chatting eagerly. About an hour and a half later, we meet the sea again, this time on the south coast.

Shall We Go Down?

Tue, 15 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The night is a bit restless; the tent is pitched on a bump and I have to twist around to avoid feeling it. Fortunately, the extraordinary view of the Piton de la Fournaise makes up for this inconvenience; we enjoy it with a nice hot coffee.

Toward a New Peak

Mon, 14 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The morning is quite fresh, and even sheltered in our guesthouse, we feel the cold of the “highlands.” Nevertheless, the weather is radiant, our laundry is clean and dry, we’re full of energy to hit the road again. The crossing of the village strikes me; I feel like I’m in the Aubrac. Small houses, smell of wood fire, frosty pastures.

Soaked Through (Like Chayote Soup)

Sun, 13 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

In the end, luck was not on our side. This morning upon waking, we are greeted by clouds, rain, wind — the very same ones that had shaken our poor little tent all night long. No sunrise then, disappointment for the countless hikers who had come to admire it.

Storming the Piton des Neiges

Sat, 12 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The night spent at our bivouac spot turned out to be very pleasant, and William and I wake up feeling good. We have breakfast with our friends and take the time to make coffee. Today, the goal is indeed not to finish the stage too early. We plan to climb the Piton des Neiges and arriving early would mean enduring intense cold for too long.

Getting Out of Mafate

Fri, 11 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The night is rather good near the river, but unfortunately I wake up around 4am and can’t get back to sleep. The three of us have breakfast before taking the “rempart” path that borders the Mafate cirque. Today’s stage consists of getting out of it to reach the town of Cilaos.

Three Rogues at the Three Rocks

Thu, 10 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Our day starts with a small pleasure: local bananas offered by the owner of the campsite where we’re sleeping, who gives them to us to accompany our everlasting oatmeal with milk. The descent toward the gorges is, as always, brutal, with large stone steps to step over; then we do it all over again in reverse on the other side.

From the River to Grand Place

Wed, 09 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

A calm and long night gives us the energy to get up around 6am, pack the tent (dry) and prepare our usual porridge with powdered milk. The bivouac spot was ideal; we were lulled by the sound of the river and barely disturbed by a wild cat.

Under the Fog, the Rain

Tue, 08 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Around 2am, a rain that starts light then becomes intense wakes us up. We had hoped to get up at 6am, but faced with so much water, we postpone until 7am. The calculation proves unwise; it’s still raining just as hard. We meet hikers we’d seen the day before in the common room. Everyone is waiting for the fog to clear to climb up to Roche Écrite and see the panorama. We run out of patience, walk for 30 minutes in the rain, soak our shoes, then turn back: we won’t see anything.

Conquering Roche Écrite

Mon, 07 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Early in the morning, we set out in search of a gas canister that we couldn’t bring on the plane. We buy one (the wrong one, we’ll learn later) along with some provisions for lunch.

A First Time for Everything

Sun, 06 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Bordeaux/Paris/Saint-Denis

An adventure often starts with a transfer — not always, mind you. This one is no exception to the rule, since getting to Réunion inevitably involves a flight, a rather long one at that.

The departure is from Bordeaux, under sweltering heat, on the train to Tourcoing, which stops at Charles de Gaulle. There, I meet my old friend William, whom I haven’t seen since Corsica, almost a year ago. We’re happy to see each other again; for each of us, the year has been long and rather short on paid leave.

Paliri - Conca

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 12:43:52 +0000

Departure

Strange atmosphere this morning at the refuge. Many of us are finishing the GR20 adventure today, and a relaxed, serene mood hangs over the bivouac area. Especially since the day promises to be beautiful. The sun rises lazily over the island of Montecristo, northeast of Corsica, and we indulge in the luxury of a few minutes of silence before the multitude of orange variations the sky takes on.

Mataza - Paliri

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 12:40:54 +0000

Gloomy

Last night’s festive evening has left its mark; we’re less rested than usual. Above all, the rain delayed our departure by about an hour, and a thick fog covers the heath. We still set off by headlamp a little after six, so as not to throw off our day too much.

Unfortunately, this first part of the day, which should take us to the Asinau refuge, is particularly gruelling. Wind, dampness and cold are the watchwords of this ascent. At the summit, you can’t see a thing.

Col de Verde - Matalza

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 12:36:54 +0000

Last night a wild boar stole a hiking pole, punctured a tent and scattered our rubbish.

Against the storm

Once again, we’re racing against time today, as a violent storm is forecast for early afternoon. We set off just before 5am, hoping to reach the Usciolu refuge around midday.

On the long climb to the pass, a loud Corsican voice shouts “Don’t shine your lights at the horses!” A park ranger is coming down from the refuge with his four beasts and his dogs, harnessed with large empty panniers.

Vizzavona - Col de Verde

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 10:53:01 +0000

First day in the South

Waking up is hard this morning; the accumulation of stages is taking its toll. Nevertheless, we set off at quarter to five for a long climb, whose summit reveals a magnificent sunrise.

Today is an easy stage — sun and rolling terrain on the programme. We walk quickly through the grassy hills. The mist, however, does not lift from the mountains.

San Petru di Verdi

Pietra Piana - Vizzavona

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 10:47:09 +0000

And there was light

This morning we try to get up even earlier than usual, around 4am. The preparation is efficient; by 4:45am we’re already on the trail. Bad luck — after just a few dozen metres, I take the wrong path and lead us onto the ridge route instead of the quiet valley path. However, we make our way calmly past the bare stone peaks, crossing paths with some rather sleepy cattle.

Bergerie de Ballone - Bergerie de Vaccaghia

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 10:37:59 +0000

Long way home

Condensation soaked our tent last night and waking up isn’t very pleasant this morning (after 9 hours of sleep nonetheless). We take longer than usual to get ready because we have to be careful not to wet our belongings with the slightest movement. We set off through a forest, the path easy even at night.

A big climb awaits us this morning, with a spot of climbing thrown in. Fortunately, I’ve toughened up these last few days and these sections are no longer a problem. We reach the summit under the rising sun. Then comes an immense descent through blocks of stone and pines.

Asco - Bergerie de Ballone

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 10:34:54 +0000

On the rock

You never quite get used to 5am starts. The dormitory where we slept was relatively noisy and we didn’t sleep as much as we wanted. We set off into the forest, before quickly reaching a river that we cross.

I was warned the day before that this stage is difficult, with many rough sections. Tackling the damp rock faces at night is indeed no picnic. I have to force myself to overcome my fear of heights and make my way as best I can along the mountainside, trying not to look at the river roaring far below.

Bergerie de Vaccaghia - Pietra Piana

Thu, 05 Sep 2024 12:39:00 +0000

Night Terrors

We go to bed at 7pm as usual, hoping for a restorative sleep under the sun. Unfortunately, the storm we’d been fleeing for three days finally decided to show up tonight. A mountain storm isn’t just a few flashes lighting up the sky from time to time. It’s a multitude of bursts, a myriad of explosions embracing the night. A little worried, we count the seconds between each flash and its thunderclap. At 2am, the storm is upon us. At 4am, a tent peg gives way; I have to get up in the tempest to secure the tent again. At 5am, torrential rain soaks the bottom of our shelter, wetting sleeping bags and mats.

Ortu - Asco

Mon, 02 Sep 2024 17:16:30 +0000

No pasarán

The refuge warden was clear yesterday: don’t go via the ridges, a storm is forecast all day. Too bad for us because we wanted to enjoy the scenery. Being reasonable, we set off toward Bonifatu, via a variant that allows us to reach the Carozzu refuge without going over the heights. We set off again by artificial light at 5:10am. There are many of us on the small trail descending along the river. An hour in the dark isn’t that fun. We’re delighted when the sun rises.

Calenzana - Ortu

Mon, 02 Sep 2024 14:57:16 +0000

By headlamp

We set off in the dead of night, by headlamp. Many of us at the campsite chose to start the day between 5 and 6am. So, in the sleeping mountain, there are just as many little glowing dots as there are groups startling in the switchbacks. The climb is steep from the get-go, a foretaste of the day ahead.

Don’t look up

Reunion

Sat, 31 Aug 2024 18:11:45 +0000

More than a year separates my reunion with my friend William. Last time, we were walking the deserted Cathar trail out of season. This time, however, we’ve chosen a far more touristy route: the GR20.

Bordeaux - Marseille

We arranged to meet in Marseille to catch the boat. I make this journey by train from Bordeaux, on a line I’m starting to know by heart. Fortunately, Giono keeps me company during these 6.5 hours of waiting, and I finish devouring Que ma Joie Demeure.

Towards Cahors

Sun, 18 Aug 2024 12:35:08 +0000

Little Climb and Chat

Up early again, after a very restful night, we set off for this final stage with a clear goal: to reach Cahors. On the first slope that takes us to the top of the causse, we meet a group of pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago and chat with them a bit. Eventually we leave them behind and descend back to the banks of the Lot.

Goin' up that hill

Sat, 17 Aug 2024 19:02:03 +0000

Easy Start

After a restless night, stirred in particular by our neighbor little Matéo and his nightmares, we wake at dawn on the banks of the Lot, ready to resume our wanderings. A tea and a coffee later, we set off again on the towpath. The river is still steaming at this hour and we fully enjoy the atmosphere. Soon enough, we climb.

The forest

Of Sun and Sweat

Fri, 16 Aug 2024 07:39:00 +0000

Célé’té

A relatively early start at 8am, after a hearty breakfast of banana and peanut butter sandwiches. It climbs in the first few kilometers as we have to ascend the causse, but the climb is brief and we quickly descend to Sauliac where we can take a short break and replenish our water. The real difficulty of the day occurs just after…

Towards Saint-Cirq

Warm Up, Calves!

Thu, 15 Aug 2024 19:14:30 +0000

Reaching Cahors

Under a grey sky and at just 20°C, we arrive on Thursday, August 15, 2024 at the small Cahors train station. About 3h30 by train separates the capital of the Lot valley from Bordeaux and we are quite glad to leave the old, dusty Intercités that valiantly brought us here. However, we still need a good hour to reach Vers, the starting point of this summer hike. A kind-hearted driver gives us a lift, as buses don’t run on public holidays.

Grasse - Gréolières

Sun, 28 Apr 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Fog

We leave early in the morning from Grasse, where we met up the night before in a tiny Airbnb barely large enough for our big frames. The weather is gloomy without being unpleasant, though we would have liked to enjoy the sea view, instead of enduring a thick, persistent fog. It is only after a good climb, on the heights of the city, that the blue sky reveals itself.

Over and out

Tue, 08 Aug 2023 21:13:39 +0000

I always tend to think that a bike trip ends the day I stop pedaling, chasing a time. Yet it’s a false impression because the transfer to Bordeaux is, in itself, a little adventure.

Breakfast this morning is taken on the terrace, at the hotel restaurant. Eduard left very early to catch his flight. So with Sébastien we enjoy the unexpected sun and the all-you-can-eat buffet.

Once this delicious moment is over, it’s time to drag - as best we can - our enormous cardboard boxes containing our poor bikes in a thousand pieces towards the bus stop.

Nordkapp!

Mon, 07 Aug 2023 12:52:55 +0000

We wake up refreshed from our night in our charming Finnish cabin. The breakfast is hearty, the owner even honors us with smoked wild trout, caught by himself.

Under the sun of the Arctic Circle

Sat, 05 Aug 2023 21:25:13 +0000

Now that’s a day we wish we had more often! Sun from morning to night, not a drop of rain and 15°C at the warmest of the day. Enough to devour the kilometers serenely.

Lapland, here we come!

Fri, 04 Aug 2023 21:34:27 +0000

The goal of the day is clear: reach Gällivare, the capital of Lapland. The stage promises to be long but not very difficult.

For the first hundred kilometers, I shamelessly shelter behind my comrades; I warned them, yesterday’s day broke me.

The great crossing

Thu, 03 Aug 2023 20:15:55 +0000

Today it’s finally under a bright sun that we set out to conquer Lapland. Soon we meet Eduard, a Dutchman we’ve often crossed paths with on the road. We decide to ride together, as he’s aiming for the same town as us, then to share a lodging.

Bis repetita

Wed, 02 Aug 2023 21:50:22 +0000

Today we cross the Swedish ski resorts, which promises some good elevation.

Around noon the rain joins in again and unfortunately the rest of the day is nothing but suffering. We push on with morale, scouting for gas stations to resupply, warm up and dry off.

At 210 km, we realize it’s going to be very complicated to do grocery shopping and arrive on time at the campsite. We then launch into a frantic 70 km sprint with Sébastien. We devour it in 2 hours and arrive just in time to buy the now-traditional potato salad.

Like fish in water

Tue, 01 Aug 2023 21:28:57 +0000

The 5am departure is freezing, I’m covered as much as possible and yet I’m dying of cold. After an hour the rain joins the party and our hardest day so far begins.

For more than four hours, not a word exchanged. We swallow our pain and each fight our own mental battle to hold on.

Return to Norway

Mon, 31 Jul 2023 19:22:22 +0000

It’s the great return to Norway for me! What emotion when disembarking at the port of Oslo. We go to the checkpoint to get our logbook stamped, for the first time.

Bye Bye Denmark

Sun, 30 Jul 2023 23:05:11 +0000

Today’s stage is quite short, only 150 km. We sleep in late and have a hearty breakfast. In fact, we take our time, so as not to arrive too early at the ferry terminal.

Once we set off, everything goes very fast. The road flies by, the wind pushes us. Only a long and intense rain comes to spoil this otherwise very peaceful day.

Danish cruising

Sat, 29 Jul 2023 21:31:43 +0000

This morning two punctures delay us by almost an hour, after an already late start. Pierre has to find a bike shop to durably repair his tire while I continue the road with Sébastien.

Soon, we reach the Danish border. What excitement! It’s the first country of the trip I’ve never visited. The landscapes have changed a lot, the flat fields giving way to immense pines that make it feel like we’ve already crossed to “the other side”.

The four seasons

Fri, 28 Jul 2023 21:53:18 +0000

For a change, departure under drizzle and grey skies this morning. A first puncture occurs in Bremen, then we take a monumental shower, the kind that penetrates every layer of our clothing.

The Teutonic deluge

Thu, 27 Jul 2023 21:13:38 +0000

We leave later this morning and plan a short day, to recover from yesterday. The German hotel is an immense labyrinth in which we get lost quite a bit before managing to get out. We empty the all-you-can-eat buffet to rebuild our strength.

One day, four countries

Wed, 26 Jul 2023 22:29:27 +0000

The start is freezing, 7°C by the water, everyone is well covered. The night at the hotel was excellent, we are in perfect working order.

The race for the frite

Tue, 25 Jul 2023 21:45:14 +0000

Chaotic start, in the rain, along the Ourcq canal. Leaving Paris is laborious, the wind blows head-on, I’m not making progress and I’m exhausting myself. The countryside then offers a sad spectacle, under the big clouds, the closely mown fields are quite dull.

After a common break at the bakery, a Belgian offers me to take his wheel and we do a good part of the stage together.

I then find the usual groups, then Sébastien. Another Frenchman joins us and we finish the day all three. I wasn’t able to change my ferry ticket. So my two comrades volunteered for the role of pilot fish! From today on, we’ll ride 300 km/day to reach Frederikshavn on Saturday. As a reward, we’ll sleep in a hotel.

Blowing in the wind

Mon, 24 Jul 2023 22:47:56 +0000

Wind, wind and more wind (and rain) that’s the program for this long day. The 6am departure allows us to get a good head start, to devour the few bumps of the day without weakening…

Unfortunately the arrival in Paris spoils the party. National roads, traffic jams, roadworks, we waste an enormous amount of time trying to make our way through the urban jungle.

Ups and downs

Sun, 23 Jul 2023 20:55:14 +0000

The departure from Lausanne is painful, two small passes for breakfast.

A strong wind slows us down but our little makeshift group fights valiantly. Finally the border, home.

Alpen crossing

Sat, 22 Jul 2023 22:02:16 +0000

Departure at 8am, water bottles fall, tires explode, in short, we are 300 cyclists.

I take the lead group which drags me at 30 km/h average towards Aosta before I get lost.

The climb up the pass is hell. 30 kilometers at 6% average, the bike loaded with 23 kilos, I sweat and get overtaken a lot, by everyone lightly loaded who sleep in hotels, or those just more experienced than me.

The last sip of beer

Fri, 21 Jul 2023 19:22:30 +0000

The night was good sheltered by the fan. A late wake-up, but not too late, followed by two Italian-style coffees - of course - later, it’s time to do some small shopping in preparation for the next day.

Lost in translation

Thu, 20 Jul 2023 19:28:59 +0000

Last-minute changes of plans caused a small unforeseen event: I spend a whole extra day in Turin with no other goal than to wait for the fateful kick-off of the adventure.

(Dis)Orientation

The arrival took place the night before, at 11pm, a bit late, this bus. Of course, my network provider gives up on me: no mobile data.

After a good half-hour struggling in the streets of the not-quite-asleep city wrapped in a humid heat that would peel the wallpaper off, I find the hostel, my keys, my room.

The call of the Far North

Wed, 19 Jul 2023 09:39:33 +0000

Father Castor, what is the NorthCape?

My trip around the United Kingdom and Ireland exactly one year ago taught me at least one thing: understanding what 4,000 kilometers by bike really means. Armed with this experience, I signed up in December for the NorthCape4000 (NC4K), an adventure (not a race) that promises its participants an extraordinary journey, from Italy to Norway.

A few months and several thousand kilometers by bike later, here I am ready to face this new challenge. The NC4K can be taken at one’s own pace, the constraints being to follow the route determined by the organizers, to start together on July 22 and not to finish later than August 15. Given the length of the route - 4,400 km this year -, this represents at least a pace of 180 km/day. However, my vacation time is not extendable and return flights from the North Cape are quite expensive and irregular. So I had to make a choice; mine will be a flight on August 10 from Alta, a small town about 200 km from my finish point.

Assessment

Sat, 20 Aug 2022 10:17:16 +0000

It’s time to take stock of this great adventure of summer 2022. Beyond the whole palette of emotions that the trip gave me, I must say that I’m relatively satisfied with the sporting performance itself.

I would have liked (but isn’t it always the case?) to go further, faster, pedal longer. I sometimes pushed my physical and mental limits, sometimes decided to take time, to rest, to visit.

In the perspective of the NorthCape4000, a great race connecting the north of Italy to the North Cape in Norway in which I want to participate, this training has been beneficial to me in many aspects. I now know where my limits are in terms of time spent on the saddle and comfort, especially when bivouacking.

From Roscoff to Fouesnant

Thu, 18 Aug 2022 17:12:44 +0000

These ferry crossings are a true pleasure, ever renewed. The beer isn’t very expensive, I love watching the coast recede, then approach the next day, you sleep well on them. Well, that’s if you booked a cabin. Me, I just have a reclining seat and a neighbour behind who’s a kickboxing champion.

So at 10pm, as I’m about to use my loudest voice to tell her to go see if I’m in Scotland, I notice the poor old lady seems a bit… disturbed. So I keep my bad mood to myself, grab my sleeping bag and go sleep in the corridor.

From Cork to Roscoff

Wed, 17 Aug 2022 15:52:10 +0000

As expected, the night was cold and damp. At 6am, I wake up freezing, a quick glance at my phone tells me the score: it’s 5°. I prefer to get up rather than continue fighting the cold in my little sleeping bag, which is only rated for 11° and anyway, is soaked.

Long hot shower and coffee in the kitchen, I warm up slowly. Around 7:30am, a French family I met yesterday comes to join me and we chat over breakfast until 9am.

Cork City

Tue, 16 Aug 2022 20:37:13 +0000

Today, visiting Cork on the programme. The night was restless, the wind blew terribly hard, lifting the tent and whipping my face. I managed to sleep, but less peacefully than usual and I was a bit cold.

Early rise, breakfast with lots of peanut butter (need to lighten the bags!). I walk down to Blarney to take the bus and thus avoid dragging my cumbersome bike around all day.

From Ardfield to Blarney

Mon, 15 Aug 2022 21:30:16 +0000

The weather lied! An incredible sun brings me out this morning (I couldn’t resist the little photo under the tent). I spread everything on the fence during my breakfast; tonight, I’ll sleep in a dry and comfortable tent, it’s a rare luxury. I cobble together a route that will take me to a campsite very near Cork.

From Durrus to Ardfield

Sun, 14 Aug 2022 21:26:17 +0000

What a joy to wake up -for the last time of the trip perhaps- under a brilliant sun. Last night, the heat even woke me from sleep, I removed some layers. I know the day will be short, I need to recover from yesterday’s effort and Cork is so close I can afford to laze around.

The Triptych of Death 💀

Sat, 13 Aug 2022 22:16:29 +0000

Thank you for all the end-of-route suggestions you gave me on the blog or privately. Nevertheless, none mention “go around all the local passes just like that for laughs because you never get enough”, too bad.

It was so beautiful yesterday that I don’t bother setting up the tent. I throw the mattress in the grass, the sleeping bag on top and it’ll be a night under the stars.

As I’m loading photos for the article (yesterday’s, still), I’m interrupted by the very friendly campsite owner. He asks about my trip and I end up telling him that Ireland is very beautiful, but really they don’t have the coasts of Wales and even less of the Lake District.

From Beara to Durrus

Fri, 12 Aug 2022 21:55:00 +0000

The alarm goes off, I look at the time: 6am, I turn it off, go back to sleep, then wake up 1h30 later. In the end, holidays don’t change me much from the office!

I chat a bit with old touring cyclists sleeping next to me. As I marvel at the fact that one of them sleeps sheltered by a simple bivy, his colleague replies, rolling his “r"s under his big beard, “don’t tell him he’s hardcore, you’re quite hardcore yourself”, pointing at my camp over my shoulder.

From Inch Beach to Beara

Thu, 11 Aug 2022 21:40:59 +0000

What a beautiful sight the sunrise over the dune this morning. From my perch, it’s a magnificent spectacle. I prepare quickly, this time it’s the perfect opportunity to make some kilometres.

I know my planned route doesn’t make a full loop of the next peninsula, so I can add quite a few miles if I feel up to it.

I had planned to treat myself to two or three slices of English cake, I eat the whole thing, plus a yoghurt and a fruit (tough, this morning appetite!). It’s already so mild that I leave in shorts and t-shirt, what a joy!

From Carrigaholt to Inch Beach

Wed, 10 Aug 2022 22:29:31 +0000

“He adored Ireland. He idolized it all out of proportion…no, make that: he - he romanticized it all out of proportion. Yeah. To him, no matter what the season was, this was still a country that existed in black and white and pulsated to the great tunes of the Dubliners.’ Uh, no let me start this over.” (Good luck finding where this comes from, which I’ve mangled once again).

I wake up grumpy this morning. My phone battery decided to die during the night and so it didn’t ring this morning. It’s not like the first days, with accumulated fatigue I no longer wake up at the first light of dawn.

From Inishmore to Carrigaholt

Tue, 09 Aug 2022 21:57:09 +0000

Finally an early wake-up! Actually, I mainly get up because everything, absolutely everything is soaked. The island is extremely humid this morning and the dew has well penetrated under the tent. The sleeping bag is soaked and drops tumble onto my face.

It’s a magnificent sun that welcomes me, as I crawl in the wet grass outside my shelter. I put on my sandals to go take some photos.

Taking advantage of the common room that opens early, I have breakfast in the warmth, only to discover, on leaving, that a thick mist has invaded the landscape. No more beaches, small fields bounded by stones, etc; I already struggle to find my tent.

From Achill Island to Inishmore

Mon, 08 Aug 2022 22:15:05 +0000

Burnt earth in the wind, stone moorlands, around the lakes, it’s for the living a bit of hell, Connemaraaaa […] You were all waiting for it a bit, weren’t you? Don’t thank me for putting it in your head, personally I hummed it all day.

Late departure, again, this time because I’m waiting for the owner to pay for the campsite. Big clouds have clung to the surrounding mountains, it’s cold and damp. I couldn’t secure the tent properly, lacking trees, so I took in water all night (yes, it rained, does that still surprise you?). I’ll dry the gear tonight, because my day promises to be very beautiful and sunny.

From Ballina to Achill Island

Sun, 07 Aug 2022 20:57:08 +0000

Here’s summer, I see the sun, the clouds fly and the sky clears […]. I’m barely exaggerating! The day looks promising, waking up under the big blue sky this morning.

Departure is still very late because I share my breakfast with a very friendly Belgian. He’s a piano tuner, former luthier, who has travelled the world by bike, an original. The conversation flows until 9am, when we decide it’s high time to start riding.

From Portnoo to Ballina

Sat, 06 Aug 2022 20:56:22 +0000

It’s incredibly cold at the Portnoo campsite. Fortunately thanks to my fantastic down jacket (thanks auntie) and my tent which isn’t so badly made, I sleep perfectly well.

At 3am, nevertheless, a violent squall wakes me. The wind is terrible and lifts the canvas from all sides, so much so that a bit of rain manages to penetrate the shelter and wet my face. Very fortunately, the sleeping bag is protected by the bivy.

From Letterkenny to Portnoo

Fri, 05 Aug 2022 20:31:52 +0000

The night is long and comfortable, in my real bed. Camping is a bit like the story of the madman who bangs his head against a wall: it feels so good when you stop!

I sleep a bit too much, unfortunately. Around 8am I finally emerge, I dash to breakfast. I chat briefly with the other guests before slipping away to get ready and leave as early as possible, I’m already very late.

From Larne to Letterkenny

Thu, 04 Aug 2022 22:40:11 +0000

2:30am, “are you taking the 4 am sir?”. I’m woken (yelled at) thus from my deep sleep on the metal benches of the P&O terminal. It’s already time to go to check-in, I’m the only foot passenger.

Quick glance at my ticket, no identity check, after all, we’re still in the UK. After still long minutes of waiting, I finally board a shuttle that takes me into the heart of the ship.

Oban 🚂 Cairnryan

Wed, 03 Aug 2022 20:37:43 +0000

Another waking up in the rain this morning. And this time it’s the big wet rain. I prepare my ever-present pita bread sandwich for breakfast.

It’s already late but my battery is once again charging at reception, which only opens at 8am. Once a coffee is downed, I pack up and retrieve my brick, a bit recharged.

I decide to go to Oban city centre, even if it’s a detour from Glasgow, because I want to know if the small ferry that used to cross from Campbeltown to Ballycastle still operates. At the tourist office, the verdict comes: it’s no.

From Inverness to Oban

Tue, 02 Aug 2022 21:36:50 +0000

At the Inverness campsite, it’s a bit of a sausage party. By which I mean that apart from me, there are only Germans.

While it’s public knowledge that I have certain affinities with our Teutonic neighbours, I fear I won’t much appreciate sharing the road with their large pearly-white Wohnwagens. So I decide to leave as early as possible to head along Loch Ness towards the southwest, with Oban as my objective, which will make a good stopping point before my descent to Glasgow.

From Tongue to John o' Groats then 🚌 to Inverness

Mon, 01 Aug 2022 16:37:06 +0000

This morning, no more battery. I get up with the sun, around 5am and prepare a good breakfast with coffee. At 7:30am the campsite laundry room reopens and I can retrieve my battery that I left charging there.

I make sure to be ready so that, when the time comes, I can leave directly. Around 7:40am, that’s done and I head off.

I quickly arrive on the famous North Coast 500, a road that winds through the highlands, very popular with motorcyclists and cyclists of all kinds. The road is indeed magnificent, following the cliff line. I discover golden sand beaches and as my surfer cousin would say, “it’s tubing”!

From Inverness to Tongue

Sun, 31 Jul 2022 20:24:31 +0000

Today, the goal is to reach Tongue, on the north coast of Scotland. The day promises to be radiant, but cold! Upon waking, the mercury timidly reaches 9°.

During my preparation, I planned clothing down to 7° minimum, I won’t last long below that. Breakfast is therefore, as often, quickly dispatched. I try not to wake my biker neighbours, who snore as loudly as their machines rev (not surprising given the number of beers consumed the previous evening).

From Edinburgh to almost Inverness

Sat, 30 Jul 2022 20:30:59 +0000

As often, waking up is hard. I couldn’t set up the tent properly for lack of a tall enough pole. With the rain, the fabric loosened and delicately stuck to my back, allowing me to feel the gentle massage of the big falling droplets.

I get changed and have breakfast in a rental tent nearby, just to be dry. I take the opportunity to make myself one of my famous instant coffees, because anyway, I know I have to deal with my punctured tyre.

From Carlisle to Edinburgh

Sat, 30 Jul 2022 07:08:39 +0000

The day starts with a disappointing discovery. A wrestling match apparently took place between my phone and me during the night. The screen is in a thousand pieces, I suppose we can say I won.

Anyway, it’s 5:30am, the ideal time to do nothing and sleep in. For me, it’s time to get up painfully and go lock myself in a container that serves as a shower to put on my wet cycling clothes.

From Kettelwell to Carlisle

Thu, 28 Jul 2022 21:04:29 +0000

This morning, there’s no rush. I have to wait for the village shop to open to withdraw cash to leave at the campsite reception (as planned yesterday, for those following). Small disappointment: this morning, it’s raining. It’s always less pleasant to get up in the dampness. Luckily, this feeling is quickly eased by my very friendly neighbour who comes to offer me fresh coffee (filtered with a french press, you can’t make this up). We chat a bit, he’s a cyclist too. No sooner has he left than a Scotsman, this time, comes up to me and starts asking about my route. He points me towards the best way to get to Ireland; that’s always something.

From Chesterfield to Kettelwell

Wed, 27 Jul 2022 20:17:18 +0000

This morning no jokes, from 5am, not only does the sun rise, but I hear the first hikers in the park. They’re mad these English! So I quickly clear out, after vaguely trying to dry (wring out) tent and clothes. The lake humidity rose during the night and the dew finished soaking everything.

Craven Arms - Chesterfield

Tue, 26 Jul 2022 22:48:16 +0000

Apparently invigorated by my famous evening yesterday, I decided this morning to take all my time before starting to pedal (it’s holidays, isn’t it?). Except leaving at 8:30am to do 200 km… that doesn’t work, elementary my dear Béthus.

I try to enjoy the “little” elevation of this stage to make up for my slight delay from previous days.

From Tintern to Craven Arms

Mon, 25 Jul 2022 20:13:36 +0000

Woke up shortly after 5am this morning. The air is mild but damp, the tent too. The little one held up! Although I felt a few drops trickle on my neck during the night… a stop at some outdoor shop will sort this out.

Despite everything, I slept and slept long! Around 9pm, unable to hold on any longer, I fell into a rather restless Morpheus’ arms, who woke me many times with wrestling matches from an UNID (Unidentified Nighttime Animal) and headaches.

From Portsmouth to Wales

Sun, 24 Jul 2022 19:25:36 +0000

The night was short and uncomfortable on the Normandie. Large coffees kept me company throughout the day but unfortunately the fatigue remained until the end.

In these conditions, finishing the stage was very difficult; numerous sugary oat bars helped, to some extent.

When the time came to cross the bridge linking England to Wales, a little tear was shed. This day was definitely one of the hardest of my short cycling life.

Preparation and Departure for Caen

Sat, 23 Jul 2022 20:03:00 +0000

Departure (too) early this morning from Bordeaux, heading to Caen by train.

After many hours tossed around in a TGV then a TER, liberation at last. Reassembling the bike that was snugly wrapped in its bag, then departure for Ouistreham along the canal, ending with a long afternoon of sightseeing, including a nice exhibition in the town and numerous coffees.

About

Fri, 22 Jul 2022 13:17:42 +0000

Cyclist by day, developer by night (or the other way around). On foot or by bike, I love to travel roads and paths, in search of bucolic landscapes and unique experiences. From misty highlands to sunny coasts, let me share my adventures with you, be it a weekend trip or a few weeks journey.

May these stories inspire you to hop on your bike and go on an adventure!

Bort-les-Orgues - Limoges

Tue, 19 Jul 2022 22:50:46 +0000

End of a lovely weekend full of twists and turns. A short day today because I’m afraid I might be a bit tight to catch my train otherwise. I’ll take advantage of this little break once in Limoges to go have a nice cold beer.

Somewhere - Bort-les-Orgues

Sun, 17 Apr 2022 21:17:00 +0000

Quite a bit of wandering today, I really messed up my route! Instead of turning north, I kept going towards Saint-Flour… Despite everything, the day ended before nightfall.

Montauban - Somewhere...

Sat, 16 Apr 2022 21:09:00 +0000

Maybe too ambitious for this first leg: impossible to reach Saint-Flour, nearly 200km from Montauban. I had definitely underestimated the elevation gain… To make up for it, a lovely little bivouac by the riverside, very pleasant!