It’s incredibly cold at the Portnoo campsite. Fortunately thanks to my fantastic down jacket (thanks auntie) and my tent which isn’t so badly made, I sleep perfectly well.

At 3am, nevertheless, a violent squall wakes me. The wind is terrible and lifts the canvas from all sides, so much so that a bit of rain manages to penetrate the shelter and wet my face. Very fortunately, the sleeping bag is protected by the bivy.

The storm calms, I fall back asleep. Departure won’t be until 8am, I’ve made the most of my rest and a good breakfast. Today I’m planning a stage of about 170km, a bit shortened, as planned.

For the first time in several days, I quickly remove my jacket (to reveal my Alpina jersey, it’s still cold). The weather promises to be much better than usual, even though everything is still soaked from the night rain and dew.

I progress quietly, on beautiful country roads. Unlike yesterday, I quickly stop for a coffee, because I think that’s what will allow me to really start the day; I can still feel the accumulated fatigue.

In Donegal I’m welcomed in a small tourist café, where I enjoy my now habitual Americano, with a large cookie. While chatting with the waiter, as I’m surprised not to meet any cyclists on the Eurovelo 1 which is nevertheless famous, he explains that few people bother to follow the complete route.

The reason given? The weather, of course! Apparently, the trend is rather camper vans (this is confirmed in the campsites as generally I’m the only one in a tent).

After this short and warm discussion, I get back on the road, to finally stop shortly after, in a small “French-style” pub where I enjoy absolutely delicious patatas bravas; finally a hot meal!

After such a lunch, the afternoon can only go well. Kilometres follow one another and are not the same. I cross grandiose landscapes and even allow myself a small detour to a magnificent beach (in front of which I lose, on a roundabout, my baguette poorly attached to a pannier, under the laughter of the Irish).

Evening arrives, we must face the facts: today the 200km will be reached. What a pleasure to ride so long without even realising it. So, a bit of sunshine changes everything!

I finally land in Ballina, Ireland’s salmon capital (they say so themselves). At the campsite reception, I’m offered yet another can of alcohol (a strange cocktail based on vodka, please don’t drink this).

Is it my nose reddened by the sun? The trembling hand when I hand over my card? My greedy look when I eye the fridge? Apparently, I’m taken for an alco everywhere I go (rightly or wrongly, you be the judge).

So this is how this perfectly perfect day ends, in the quiet of a family campsite. Tomorrow, at public demand, heading to Achill Island…

Comments

Moum

Well Ivan, I have a request, now that you’ve found your smile and your legs… I’d like you to bring me back a “Scottish, dietetically stable in pure simplicity” flapjack, and I promise you that on your return you’ll find the best prune Breton cake of your life! ❤️😋 At last! Here comes summer, here comes summer! …. Irish … éé! éé! Apparently … frisky … but dry, that’s already not bad. N’eus ket glaw med n’eo ket tomm an amzer … brr!! But I sense you’re going to enjoy yourself! Figuratively speaking … I admit I visually delight in your snacks, all fattier and sweeter than the last, staged in a very appetising way! Ah! Ah! … It’s revenge for the 10,000 calories burned each day! I hope the weather will give you a bit of respite and that you’ll enjoy this magical coast! The landscape in your photos is already a delight! (there I go again…🥴) … Heavy weather warning here, sea beautiful to slight, increasing 5 to 6 locally, for southern Iroise… I think of you hoping you don’t have too much … of wind … in your face … my “bi ratt”! Keep smiling and hungrying! 😘!

Sandrine

Your arrival in Ireland awakens my memories… What a magnificent trip with Tenetiève and Gérard! I can’t wait for you to tell the rest: Achill Island… I’m happy for you because the weather is finally more clement: Erin has heard the prayers!! Enjoy your coming days!

Dad

Philadelphia my love! Ah ah Leslie… Ah yes! Now with the photos, we’re at the heart of the subject….the subject being: why would you prefer 20° max, the showers…..? Well, for these landscapes and these changing lights….. I hope Achill won’t disappoint you and since you’ll be there tonight, can you fulfil some of these photographic requests? :

• A young boy in swimming trunks chased by his mother on a beach in the rain (temperature 19°). She says: “Come back naughty”.
• A village sunk in peat that would have been suddenly deserted.
• “Keem bay” from above and below.
• A girl with wavy, coppery red hair, green eyes. She bursts out laughing after putting her bike next to a pub entrance. She seemed about 27 years old, she was there when we passed by. Come on son, keep taking photos to make us jealous.

Yann

Hello Ivan! It’s good to see that your bike and you have started off on the right foot ;) And looking at the photos you share, it’s worth it. I’ve never been to Ireland, and it’s a destination that appeals to me. However, I won’t do the trip by bike, I’d be dead before reaching the first stage ;) Have a nice day, continue to make us dream! See you tomorrow! Bises