The weather lied! An incredible sun brings me out this morning (I couldn’t resist the little photo under the tent). I spread everything on the fence during my breakfast; tonight, I’ll sleep in a dry and comfortable tent, it’s a rare luxury. I cobble together a route that will take me to a campsite very near Cork.

I plan to spend two nights there, which will allow me to go visit the city tomorrow without my bike. The road is quiet, I start by following the coastline, looking for hidden forts and coves. What a pleasure to be able to take your time and get lost following every tourist sign. After about thirty kilometres, I stop in front of a beautiful beach, one of the local surf spots, where I enjoy a coffee (yes, accompanied by McVitie’s, why ask the question?). Beginners in red bibs practise take-offs on small soft waves. I leave again, the Old Head point awaits me. I find there a small memorial for the Lusitania and quite a few tourists. After a brief passage through the fields, it’s Kinsale, an adorable port town where the air smells of fish marinated in salty brine. I stop despite the smell for lunch in front of the port, watching the sailboats heel in the light breeze that has picked up. Taking stock of my fifty morning kilometres, I tell myself I owe the truth to all the Irish people I meet. Often, I’m stopped by herds crossing the road, accompanied by their shepherds. The cows (those from here in particular?) tend to cover the road with particularly liquid filth during their passage. If, unfortunately, I then dare to take a bit of speed on the path they’ve taken, I often end up spattered with the odorous nectar. So know, dear Irish hosts, that the little flies on my cheeks, the wild grasses on my glasses, the lumps in my red beard, despite your good spirit, shouldn’t be mistaken for some mud collected in ruts. In one sentence (worthy of JCVD), when it has the colour of shit, the texture of shit, the smell of shit: IT IS shit. Fortunately, I regularly find something to wash up, let my readership be reassured. I leave, in the climb, a minor incident, a construction truck has crashed into a telephone pole. Smoke, oil everywhere, I’m very glad to arrive after the battle rather than during. I ride a bit more along the coast, this long detour on the map, it’s just to go see Robert’s Cove. A real pirate cove, which has the name and the look. I’m not disappointed with the trip. What bothers me though is the violent and very short shower waiting for me just after. I sense the day is taking another turn, it’s the end of the good weather, I put my jacket back on. Anyway, the rest of the day promises to be less exciting because I have to cross the countryside to go back up towards Cork. I’ve nevertheless noted the name of an old ruined abbey that a friendly cyclist told me about the day before during my lunch break. Nothing better than asking locals for their favourite little spot. I ride well, but start to see the dark purple clouds hovering above Cork. As thunder begins to rumble, I descend at good speed on a small country road. It emerges onto a main road, I brake, quite hard. Woe is me, I sense I’m losing control of the bike; it shakes, wobbles, what’s happening? I realise quite quickly that I’ve just had a puncture, I have to stop without ending my teeth on the tarmac. Somewhat emergency braking (I feel like I’m leaving after-work drinks on a Friday the way I can’t steer straight), I end up on the verge. I catch my breath for a moment, I was frankly scared; it’s the front tyre that gave out, it almost came off the rim. Bad luck, I hadn’t repaired my spare tube, so I have no choice but to put a patch here and now. That’s a good hour lost because instead of one, it’s two huge holes I have to patch (yes, I pinched the tube, I see you coming cyclists). The storm rumbles more and more and when I leave, the clouds, unable to hold it any longer, burst one after another. The abbey is actually a few dozen metres from the breakdown spot. I enter with some apprehension. In the middle of yellow fields, crows everywhere, the low sky and lightning illuminating the old walls. I feel like I’m in The Name of the Rose and I wouldn’t be entirely surprised to be greeted by an old hunchbacked monk (but where is Sean?!). A few photos and I’m back on the road, the rain falls harder. After still a few kilometres, I must face the facts: my repair isn’t holding well, the tyre is deflating. Excellent excuse to stop at a service station and devour a chocolate muffin washed down with a coffee (I still re-inflated the tube, afterwards). Last climb: the campsite is at the very top. There’s also the famous Blarney Castle, which I’ll presumably visit tomorrow. I arrive at reception soaking wet, I get water everywhere on the registration papers. I quickly set up camp, take a good shower and here I am in the large communal kitchen, enjoying my emergency ration, which I’ve kept throughout the trip. There are ONLY French people. It annoys me a bit, I feel like I’ve already crossed the Channel (I know, it’s not exactly the Channel, it’s the Celtic Sea, there). Fortunately, a Dutch family comes to raise the level! Everyone’s on coke playing “The Hedgehog Race”. The dad, huge, wears an electric blue knitted jumper with a large portrait of Pluto (he’ll later take it off to reveal a Bambi t-shirt). Thank them. Tomorrow is going to be a beautiful day. Normally, the sun should join the party and I can’t wait to discover the city and the nearby castle. Thanks to everyone for your messages yesterday, you’re absolutely right: I’m going to fully enjoy my last day here and the lovely Breton stage that awaits me!

Comments

Moum

Definitely, Ivan, I love the way you tell your mish… That’s the case to say it! Solution found in no time, at least in appearance, you know how to keep your readers in suspense! “No stress”… It comes back to me suddenly… 😉… Despite everything, wanting to see you in the saddle on your return, no jokes, okay! given the state of the tyres, moderate speed in descents! (bis repetita😁) Very moving, these crosses with Celtic patterns… and these old stones… But, you don’t appear in the photos, were you really covered everywhere… ? 😵‍💫 For the last stage, dear to your heart, I imagine, you might get a shock depending on the route you take. The landscape is somewhat lunar since the fires that almost ravaged 2000 hectares of moorland west of Brasparts. It still smelled of smoke recently. But well, this isn’t yet on the agenda. In the meantime, keep touristing and walking, for once! 😘

Dad

Ah yes! we almost come to wish for small everyday em……..ents… Our mocking nostrils still quiver from the narration of all these cow shit that tease you. Ireland offers you its last sweetmeats…. Enjoy your last day and as a Chinese friend would say “See you soon son”. Come on Brett, keep corking !

Yann

Dear Ivan! What courage! I don’t know how you do it but you are extraordinary in facing all these ’emmerdes’ that come one after another. And then, even there, you ask for more even as your journey draws to a close. What an adventure! What memories forever engraved! Nothing surprises me when you write that you’d like to continue :D I saw that you also took up poetry, great performance! Continue like that, you’ll make it in rhyme. One thing is certain, it made me want to do a road trip in Ireland. Certainly given my condition it can’t be by bike, but it’s a project I need to work on and refine! So thank you for all this magical sharing made of magnificent images, litres of coffee, McVitie’s, scones, sweat, punctures, sun, rain, challenge, slow downs and willpower, and so on. And I think the pleasure of writing this travel diary also gave you a lot of pleasure, with humour, music, scenes of daily life, encounters, kilometres of asphalt, a little more coffee ;) Kisses and bravo

Nina

Force and Honour!

Sandrine

A big bravo Ivan for this journey! Bravo … and thank you for sharing your adventure with us through your fascinating story where mishaps drizzled with a good dose of humour, treats that reward your efforts and your will when the route gets tougher mingle… And all this in sumptuous settings that will probably enchant you for a while… I already have the blues of this beautiful series coming to an end and now await a new season! Who knows?!😊 Enjoy the end of this trip and the upcoming reunion! See you very soon!!