The Cotswold Way on The cyclist diary

Bath Without Effort

Fri, 22 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

This morning around 7 AM, an unprecedented question arises: is the last leg of the Cotswold Way worth it? The map shows crossing many roads, including the highway, and German hikers we met yesterday confirmed that the stage was “forgettable.”

After some back and forth, our decision is made: we’ll finish by bus and instead spend the day visiting the ancient city of Bath, which wasn’t in the original plan.

Walk on the Ridge

Thu, 21 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The night wasn’t so great at the inn. Was it the meal that was too heavy? Maybe. A little too much good ale? Possibly too.

Anyway, we hit the road quickly after a rushed breakfast (they still made me some excellent scrambled eggs). First stop, Dursley, still asleep when we passed through. It’s less pretty than usual, so no regrets.

Comfort at Uley

Wed, 20 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The night was finally excellent — thanks to earplugs — and the mood is frankly very good this morning, especially since we know we’ll be able to have a proper breakfast in three kilometres at Painswick.

Damn Highway

Tue, 19 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The campsite’s common room is an excellent reason to linger this morning over breakfast. It’s warm inside and we’re well settled.

When it’s time to leave, unfortunately we’re greeted by a dreary landscape of harvested fields, interspersed with busy roads. We quickly climb a hill, enjoying the nice view of the Gloucester basin.

Kilometres on the Green

Mon, 18 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The night is excellent and the waking gentle, though the sun isn’t playing along. We take the time to heat up coffee and prepare some porridge; the stage isn’t that long and we want to enjoy the morning softness.

When it’s finally time to leave, it’s for a few quiet kilometres that take us to Winchcombe, a charming village in the same style as yesterday’s, but noticeably larger.

We don’t linger too long and instead set off to conquer a little local hill, atop which Neolithic ruins testify to ancient funeral rites in the region — and to a certain sense of architecture.

The Sun That Glitters and the Grass That Greens

Sun, 17 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Strange surprise upon waking today: the water is cut off in the whole village. Hard to make breakfast (usually porridge) or even do a bit of washing.

We buy two litres of water at the grocery store, where we run into many locals, just as puzzled as we are.

The Crossing of Paris (Among Other Things)

Sat, 16 Aug 2025 00:00:00 +0000

We decided, in an effort to reduce our carbon footprint — it’s the done thing — not to take the plane to get to England. The prospect of taking the Eurostar for the second time in my life delighted me to no end, I must admit. However, we’re not simply going Paris - London, but Talence - Chipping Campden, and that’s where the difference lies.