Gloomy

Last night’s festive evening has left its mark; we’re less rested than usual. Above all, the rain delayed our departure by about an hour, and a thick fog covers the heath. We still set off by headlamp a little after six, so as not to throw off our day too much.

Unfortunately, this first part of the day, which should take us to the Asinau refuge, is particularly gruelling. Wind, dampness and cold are the watchwords of this ascent. At the summit, you can’t see a thing.

The descent is quite dizzying. We find the refuge somewhat deserted, dirty and just as windy. Good thing we changed our plans — we were supposed to sleep here!

Ridges?

To reach the Paliri refuge, we have two options: the official route or the “alpine” variant. But the wind today is gusting over 100km/h. I wasn’t keen on the idea, and the warden at Asinau definitively talks us out of it. So we opt for the long, winding valley road that snakes along the hillside to the Col de Bavella. A little dose of civilisation awaits us there, as the pass is very busy with tourists who can drive there and have lunch at one of the many restaurants. Hell of big SUVs — we quickly move on.

The terrain becomes more sandy. Again, we come across refuge wardens on horseback, carrying waste down from Paliri. A few dozen minutes later, we reach the refuge. The evening is windy, but the view is breathtaking. We drink a few beers in front of the cliffs with our new friends.

Tomorrow marks the final descent, definitively, toward Conca.