Crossing the Isle of Beauty on The cyclist diary

Paliri - Conca

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 12:43:52 +0000

Strange atmosphere this morning at the refuge. Many of us are finishing the GR20 adventure today, and a relaxed, serene mood hangs over the bivouac area. Especially since the day promises to be beautiful. The sun rises lazily over the island of Montecristo, northeast of Corsica, and we indulge in the luxury of a few minutes of silence before the multitude of orange variations the sky takes on.

Mataza - Paliri

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 12:40:54 +0000

Gloomy

Last night’s festive evening has left its mark; we’re less rested than usual. Above all, the rain delayed our departure by about an hour, and a thick fog covers the heath. We still set off by headlamp a little after six, so as not to throw off our day too much.

Unfortunately, this first part of the day, which should take us to the Asinau refuge, is particularly gruelling. Wind, dampness and cold are the watchwords of this ascent. At the summit, you can’t see a thing.

Col de Verde - Matalza

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 12:36:54 +0000

Last night a wild boar stole a hiking pole, punctured a tent and scattered our rubbish.

Against the storm

Once again, we’re racing against time today, as a violent storm is forecast for early afternoon. We set off just before 5am, hoping to reach the Usciolu refuge around midday.

On the long climb to the pass, a loud Corsican voice shouts “Don’t shine your lights at the horses!” A park ranger is coming down from the refuge with his four beasts and his dogs, harnessed with large empty panniers.

Vizzavona - Col de Verde

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 10:53:01 +0000

First day in the South

Waking up is hard this morning; the accumulation of stages is taking its toll. Nevertheless, we set off at quarter to five for a long climb, whose summit reveals a magnificent sunrise.

Today is an easy stage — sun and rolling terrain on the programme. We walk quickly through the grassy hills. The mist, however, does not lift from the mountains.

San Petru di Verdi

Pietra Piana - Vizzavona

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 10:47:09 +0000

And there was light

This morning we try to get up even earlier than usual, around 4am. The preparation is efficient; by 4:45am we’re already on the trail. Bad luck — after just a few dozen metres, I take the wrong path and lead us onto the ridge route instead of the quiet valley path. However, we make our way calmly past the bare stone peaks, crossing paths with some rather sleepy cattle.

Bergerie de Ballone - Bergerie de Vaccaghia

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 10:37:59 +0000

Long way home

Condensation soaked our tent last night and waking up isn’t very pleasant this morning (after 9 hours of sleep nonetheless). We take longer than usual to get ready because we have to be careful not to wet our belongings with the slightest movement. We set off through a forest, the path easy even at night.

A big climb awaits us this morning, with a spot of climbing thrown in. Fortunately, I’ve toughened up these last few days and these sections are no longer a problem. We reach the summit under the rising sun. Then comes an immense descent through blocks of stone and pines.

Asco - Bergerie de Ballone

Tue, 10 Sep 2024 10:34:54 +0000

On the rock

You never quite get used to 5am starts. The dormitory where we slept was relatively noisy and we didn’t sleep as much as we wanted. We set off into the forest, before quickly reaching a river that we cross.

I was warned the day before that this stage is difficult, with many rough sections. Tackling the damp rock faces at night is indeed no picnic. I have to force myself to overcome my fear of heights and make my way as best I can along the mountainside, trying not to look at the river roaring far below.

Bergerie de Vaccaghia - Pietra Piana

Thu, 05 Sep 2024 12:39:00 +0000

Night Terrors

We go to bed at 7pm as usual, hoping for a restorative sleep under the sun. Unfortunately, the storm we’d been fleeing for three days finally decided to show up tonight. A mountain storm isn’t just a few flashes lighting up the sky from time to time. It’s a multitude of bursts, a myriad of explosions embracing the night. A little worried, we count the seconds between each flash and its thunderclap. At 2am, the storm is upon us. At 4am, a tent peg gives way; I have to get up in the tempest to secure the tent again. At 5am, torrential rain soaks the bottom of our shelter, wetting sleeping bags and mats.

Ortu - Asco

Mon, 02 Sep 2024 17:16:30 +0000

No pasarán

The refuge warden was clear yesterday: don’t go via the ridges, a storm is forecast all day. Too bad for us because we wanted to enjoy the scenery. Being reasonable, we set off toward Bonifatu, via a variant that allows us to reach the Carozzu refuge without going over the heights. We set off again by artificial light at 5:10am. There are many of us on the small trail descending along the river. An hour in the dark isn’t that fun. We’re delighted when the sun rises.

Calenzana - Ortu

Mon, 02 Sep 2024 14:57:16 +0000

By headlamp

We set off in the dead of night, by headlamp. Many of us at the campsite chose to start the day between 5 and 6am. So, in the sleeping mountain, there are just as many little glowing dots as there are groups startling in the switchbacks. The climb is steep from the get-go, a foretaste of the day ahead.

Don’t look up

Reunion

Sat, 31 Aug 2024 18:11:45 +0000

More than a year separates my reunion with my friend William. Last time, we were walking the deserted Cathar trail out of season. This time, however, we’ve chosen a far more touristy route: the GR20.

Bordeaux - Marseille

We arranged to meet in Marseille to catch the boat. I make this journey by train from Bordeaux, on a line I’m starting to know by heart. Fortunately, Giono keeps me company during these 6.5 hours of waiting, and I finish devouring Que ma Joie Demeure.