Last night a wild boar stole a hiking pole, punctured a tent and scattered our rubbish.

Against the storm

Once again, we’re racing against time today, as a violent storm is forecast for early afternoon. We set off just before 5am, hoping to reach the Usciolu refuge around midday.

On the long climb to the pass, a loud Corsican voice shouts “Don’t shine your lights at the horses!” A park ranger is coming down from the refuge with his four beasts and his dogs, harnessed with large empty panniers.

We quickly make our way along the small ridge in the half-light and, as planned, reach the refuge just before noon. There we find two fellow travellers taking a lunch break. With a few other hikers, we get a weather update: the storm has been pushed back to 5pm. Since we’re very exposed, we decide to double the stage to sleep in the plain, which is more sheltered.

Toward Matalza

After a small snack and a good coffee, we follow the windy ridgeline again. The landscapes are beautiful, completely different from what we’re used to.

We soon leave the rock for quiet dirt paths that snake between the lush hills of the valley. A good opportunity for some quality chats with William.

At the Matalza refuge, we order a hot dinner. It will be the only one of the trip — we want to “try it.” Our two companions soon join us, and the evening revolves around good beers and card games.

Staying dry

The dinner is okay but nothing special. At 7pm, the storm finally hits. In minutes, the ground is soaked, puddles form, the tent is flooded. We ask to be sheltered inside the refuge, which the owner agrees to. Without delay, we grab all our gear from the tent and move it to dry quarters. We end up spending a warm, dry night — for the price of a bivouac.

Tomorrow we’ll double up again to get closer to Conca and have one last peaceful stage to finish this hike in style.