Conquering Roche Écrite

Distance

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Duration

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Elevation gain

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Speed

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Early in the morning, we set out in search of a gas canister that we couldn’t bring on the plane. We buy one (the wrong one, we’ll learn later) along with some provisions for lunch.

Around 8am, the official start of this adventure is given. First, a long crossing of Saint-Denis, before tackling the actual trail. In this immense climb, the weather doesn’t help us. It’s hot, humid, and it rains regularly. Unfortunately, the view is often obscured, but we delight in the exotic plants and birds.

A first stop at the bakery in Le Brûlé gives us the chance to taste our first Macatias, local stuffed bread rolls. From what we’re told, this first time shouldn’t be the last. The climb resumes with a vengeance, and so does the rain.

A few tight switchbacks later, a small sheltered table gives us the opportunity to enjoy sandwiches made with dark bread. It’s a bit bland but filling.

The further we go, the more lush and exotic the nature becomes. After about 6 hours of effort, we reach the Roche Écrite mountain hut. A bunch of cheerful folks playing the djembe welcome us, and we pitch our tent in a secluded corner. The shower is as cold as the welcome is warm. Over a beer, we share our first doubts: did we bring warm enough clothes? Could Réunion’s mild winter be harsher than expected? We tell ourselves that if it’s so cold, we’ll just go to bed earlier.

We have dinner at the hut to regain some strength. The smell of wood fire and simmering meat made us hungry. Obviously, we’re served a rougail, accompanied by spicy chilli. Tomorrow we’ll likely set off in the rain, and we have planned a quick round trip to the nearby peak.